A pilot that keeps dying is a safety system doing its job. Here is what usually causes it, how to relight by the label, and what to do if you smell gas.
Get Help Today Or call now: (401) 324-9590Natural gas has a deliberate rotten-egg odor added so leaks are noticeable. If you smell it near the water heater or anywhere in the house:
Do not try to relight a pilot until the smell is gone and you are certain the cause is understood. Propane customers should use their propane supplier's emergency number instead.
On a standing-pilot gas water heater, a small flame burns constantly near the main burner. A safety device called a thermocouple sits in that flame and generates a tiny electrical signal. As long as it senses heat, it tells the gas valve it is safe to keep gas flowing. If the flame goes out, the signal stops and the valve closes, which is exactly what prevents raw gas from filling your basement.
That is why a pilot that "won't stay lit" is rarely about the flame itself. Usually the safety system is doing its job because something upstream is wrong.
Newer gas heaters may use electronic ignition or a flame sensor instead of a standing pilot. You may see blinking status lights instead of a visible flame. The causes below still apply in spirit, but the fix is different, and the label on the unit tells you what the blink codes mean.
The most common cause. Over time the tip gets coated in soot or loses its ability to generate a signal. The pilot lights while you hold the button down, then goes out the moment you let go. This is a low-cost part, but because it sits inside a gas assembly, it is a plumber's job.
Most manufacturers say to hold the pilot button down for roughly a minute after lighting so the thermocouple can heat up. Letting go too early is a classic reason for a pilot that dies right away. Follow the exact timing on your unit's label.
Air movement can blow out a small pilot flame. So can a blocked or backdrafting flue, which is also a carbon monoxide hazard. Typical triggers include a failing chimney liner, a bathroom or dryer fan pulling air, or a nearby furnace that was recently replaced. If you suspect venting, do not keep relighting. Have it inspected.
Dust and debris can partially block the tiny gas opening, leaving a weak yellow flame that does not heat the thermocouple properly. A healthy pilot flame is generally steady and mostly blue.
Check that the shutoff valve on the supply line is open, and notice whether other gas appliances (stove, dryer, furnace) are working. If none are, call your gas utility. If only the water heater has trouble, the gas control valve may be failing.
This is the unit's brain. If the pilot lights and stays lit but you still get no main burner, or the pilot refuses to stay lit even with a fresh thermocouple, the control valve is a suspect. On older tanks, that repair can approach the price of a new heater.
We are not going to give you a generic step-by-step, because relight procedures vary by manufacturer and model. The correct sequence is printed on a label on the water heater itself, usually near the gas control. That label is the authority. In general, the steps involve turning the gas control to its pilot setting, waiting for gas to clear, lighting the pilot while holding the button, and then turning the dial to the on position. Read it fully before you start.
Do not bypass a thermocouple, tape down a pilot button, or defeat any safety shutoff. Those parts exist because the failure they prevent is a gas leak or carbon monoxide event.
Many Rhode Island homes, particularly older multi-families, have gas water heaters in basements that share space with a boiler or furnace and vent into a masonry chimney. Those setups are more prone to draft problems when a neighboring appliance is replaced or the chimney deteriorates. Cold weather also increases demand and can expose a marginal heater.
Replacing a gas water heater here generally involves a permit and inspection, and gas connections should be handled by a licensed plumber. If your pilot problem turns out to be a failed control valve on an older tank, ask for an honest comparison of repair cost versus replacement. Our repair or replace guide explains the rule of thumb. If you are weighing fuel types, see electric vs gas.
Whatever the cause, have a working carbon monoxide alarm on every level of the home near sleeping areas. That is basic protection with any gas appliance.
The most common cause is a worn or dirty thermocouple. Other causes include drafts, blocked venting, a dirty pilot orifice, an interrupted gas supply, or a failing gas control valve. If it will not stay lit after one careful relight, stop and call a professional.
Follow the instructions printed on the label on your water heater. The sequence differs by manufacturer and model. If you smell gas at any point, do not attempt it. Leave the house and call your gas utility's emergency line or 911.
Rhode Island Energy lists its 24-hour gas emergency line as 1-800-640-1595. You can also call 911. Call from outside the home and do not use switches or flames. Propane customers should call their propane supplier's emergency number.
The part itself is inexpensive, but total cost depends on the plumber, the model and access to the unit. We do not quote prices here. Ask for a written estimate and compare it with the cost of replacing an older heater.
It can signal a venting problem that raises carbon monoxide risk, so do not ignore it or defeat the safety shutoff. Keep a working CO alarm near sleeping areas and have the unit inspected.
Tell us what is going on and we will connect you with a local Rhode Island plumber. RI Water Heaters is a referral service. We do not do the work ourselves.
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